Tis’ the season for dark, strong, hoppy, or spiced winter seasonals that defy conventions. At this dark and chilly time of year we are either gathering with friends and family, or perhaps drowning our sorrows at home or the bottleshop with the comforting ales and lagers we call winter seasonals. Recently, the New School called together some of our freelance and regular contributors (Neil Ferguson, Don Scheidt, Michael Perozzo) for a joyous night of tasting and ranking 26 of the best holiday releases we could find for the 2022-2023 season. The following is broken down into the main body of reviews, before the top 15 and final top 5 finishers on the bottom.

ColdFire Brewing Little Brown Owl

Neil Ferguson: As brown ales go, this is on the lighter side but it’s a nice easy drinker that is balanced with a touch of sweet. Though a little more roastiness might amplify the flavor, this is a worthy take on a style that doesn’t get the love it deserves - 3.0

Michael Perozzo: Rich and robust, yet easy to drink. Not roasty as some Browns get. Nice subtle sweetness. - 4.0

Don Scheidt: Nice little brown ale, but not quite seeing the holiday / winter seasonal connection with this one. It's a good malty beer, on the sweet side, but no sugar plums or candy canes. One for the malt fans, or maybe for those who like pairing their brown ales with milk chocolate. Put it in their stockings along with a box of malted milk balls. - 3.5

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: A full bodied but still very crisp beer with a clean carmel malt body, I get roasted peanuts and pecan flavors with a minty hop finish. A terrific brown ale that shows that they don’t have to be hoppy, sweet, or boring.

RedHook Winterhook

Neil Ferguson: Definitely a classic and worth picking up for a throwback. It almost brings to mind a lower ABV barleywine with nice caramel and leather notes. The strong bitterness brings to mind hoppy barleywines like Bigfoot - 2.5.

Michael Perozzo: Tastes like a Barleywine, but watered down. Takes me back to old school winter ales. - 2.0

Don Scheidt: One of the O.G. craft-brewed seasonals, an old-school classic that runs right in the middle of the pack. It's not quite a barleywine, but there was a hint of oxidation in the can sampled. Not quite sure how this fairly fresh canned beer got that way. Anyway, it's balanced, but not particularly hoppy or uber-malty. It's one for fans of the classic microbrew. - 2.5

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: Caramel and candy flavors, with an earthy and slightly vegetal hops, cardboardy, like a soggy barleywine-lite. Solid, if you like English-style olde ales, but not for everyone.

Hopworks Abominable Ale

Neil Ferguson: Think of your classic Northwest IPA with a cranked up malt profile. Bitterness is balanced with a slight note of sweetness. Though this beer has been around a while and may be considered old school at this point, there’s a reason why it comes back every year as it still drinks nicely and impresses with a wallop of C hops - 3.5.

Michael Perozzo: A winter ale for IPA lovers. Great bitterness and very clean. - 4.0

Don Scheidt: Hop-forward with a certain kind of crispness (but not a crispy-boi lager), drinks pretty much a rich double IPA, and overall in very good condition. You have hop-heads on your shopping list, right? This one is the stocking-stuffer for them. - 4.0

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: This beer always pulls off this light honey/toffee graham cracker crunch to the body that is both sweet and not at the same time. I get notes of caramel coffee creamer and a earthy and spicy hops. Nice balance of fun malt flavors with hops, pleases fans of both.

Deschutes Brewery Jubelale

Neil Ferguson: If you can get past the hipster chillwave motif of this year’s label, this is a fun winter beer. Baking spices and fig on the nose hit you right away, but then it packs an unexpectedly hoppy punch. The label claims that you get notes of spices and cocoa, and the toastiness is definitely on display, but in reality the hops are the star of the show that make this more of a draw for IPA lovers.

Michael Perozzo: Still stands the test of time. Robust, sweet. Notes of toffee and cocoa. Makes ya wish it was snowing.

Don Scheit: Less hop-forward than HUB's Abominable, dark like a brown ale, and spice notes even though no spices other than hops are in the brew, making this a creative blend of malt, hops, and yeast. Deschutes has a long history in the craft-brewing world, and has managed to keep this classic winter warmer fresh and interesting.

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: I think Neil feels personally attacked by this year’s label, it is certainly unique. The liquid inside is one of the better years of Jubel, cherry cola and candy sugar, nutty lightly roasted malts, cocoa powder, with a slightly minty finish. A great beer for malt lovers who appreciate a subtle hop and natural spice flavors.

Threshold Brewing Barrel-Aged Dark Expanse

Neil Ferguson: Dark Expanse is a pastry stout made with coconut, vanilla beans, and Polish chocolate covered marshmallows called Ptasie Mleczko. These aren’t called out in the barrel-aged version, which spent a year in Westward Whiskey barrels. The resulting beer carries a wave of malt and sweetness to give it a glazed chocolate donut vibe, and in this case we get a little kiss of the barrel to give it that robust, boozy flavor.

Michael Perozzo: Chocolate, marshmallow and whiskey! If even a little boozy.

Don Scheidt: Chocolate covered marshmallows ("Ptasie Mleczko" or "Bird's Milk") are the primary adjunct here, making for a very sweet stout with added depth from aging in whiskey barrels. It's a dessert beer, one to sip while warming by the fire.

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: This is one of those real deserrty stouts that some people love, try it in place of the chocolate pecan pie at the end of your holiday meal. I was greeted by candi syrup, white chocolate, salted nuts, vanilla cake batter, and an oily chocolate. Sweet, thick, gooey, and cloying in large amounts.

Silver City Brewery Wonderland winter lager

Neil Ferguson: Drinks kind of like a doppelbock with a pleasant warmness that’s balanced with that crispness of a lager. Strong caramel malt and a breadiness.

Michael Perozzo: Subtle dark fruit and malty. This is a winter beer I’d want a 6-pack of.

Don Scheidt: Malty seasonal dark lager, clean and full-flavored, a lot like a Weihnachtsbier from a German brewer. Hops are restrained, so don't expect much hop punch; this is another gift for the malt fans.

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: I am glad to enjoy a different, more European, version of a winter warmer with this rich lager. This is a malty beer with syrupy flavors but isn’t cloying or have too intense a body as that descriptor might make you think of. The focus here is on dark fruits from the malts and fermentation that show off sugar plums, dates, brandy soaked dark cherries.

Double Mountain Brewery Fa La La La La

Neil Ferguson: As big and bitter as a festive beer should be! Though there is a huge hit of hop bitterness, the malt lends a sweet note that tones it all down and rounds thing out. Fairly crisp and piney to bring to mind a chilly Northwest forest on a winter day.

Michael Perozzo: Bottle date of 9/28/22 worried me from the start. Oxidation came right through up front. Struggling to find positives on this one. Somehow, it’s still enjoyable, but difficult to overcome the flaws for me.

Don Scheidt: At 85 IBUs, there's a substantial hop profile here, but it's backed up by generous malts. It's aromatic, and there's a drying effect at the end of the finish, but the real surprise is the September canning date. That's thinking ahead, isn't it?

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: This is a straight up northwest IPA that pours a slightly hazy orange hue, with notes of marmalade, pungent citrus, marmalade and grassy hops that end in a mouth-coating bitterness.

Bend Beer Co. Snow’d In

Neil Ferguson: Similar to the bale breaker with lots of hop dankness. Citrusy, pretty light, and a solid overall IPA coming in at an approachable 6%. - 4.0

Michael Perozzo: Soft and fruity. Crisp bitterness.

Don Scheidt: Straight-up Pacific Northwest IPA, sure, but doesn't seem particularly "wintery." This would be good for any time of the year. Balanced blend of hops and malt in the classic style. It doesn't have to be a standout when it's this well brewed.

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: Another winter IPA that takes the tried-and-true approach of adding a little maltiness back into a style that has mostly forsaken it. The fruity yeast and hops lend an apricot flavor to the savory and grapefruit laden hops, leaving a sturdy woody bitterness on top of a grainy cereal and honey malted base.

Theshold Brewing Holiday Bubble

Neil Ferguson: You might think this would be a super sour with the fruits it includes, but it leans heavier into sweet over sour. It has fruit and a funk but as a whole is lacking in both the sour and fruit department while being mostly sugary, bringing to mind a fruited wheat ale.

Michael Perozzo: Would like it to be more tart and deliver on more fruit. This is subtle and easy to drink.

Don Scheidt: Moderate tartness here, fruity with a funky yogurt-like yeast aroma and a touch of a lingering sour finish. Probably not a stocking stuffer though.

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: Hard to tell if it’s my mind playing tricks on me, but this tart and fruited beer takes on the doughy sponge cake and powdered sugar flavors and mouthfeel of a soggy sponge cake. I get dried stone fruit notes like apricot and sweet orange, a prick of cranberry, but it’s flabby and yogurty.

Firestone Walker Brewing Mocha Dolce

Neil Ferguson: Last year this was more of a Mexican hot chocolate and it was a sleeper hit. Without the cinnamon, it doesn’t hit as hard but if you are a mocha fan this is the beer for you. Strong coffee and chocolate and the nitro is a cool feature, though the lack of carbonation makes this almost more of a coffee beverage than a beer.

Michael Perozzo: Big nose delivers coffee and cream. Coffee dominates it.

Don Scheidt: Coffee and vanilla aromas practically self-propel out of the glass, followed up by cocoa nibs, even more pronounced in the flavors. This is a big fat mocha, and there's a beer hiding in there somewhere, but this is not your typical beer-flavored beer. Serve for dessert with some high- falutin' chocolate to accompany.

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: I don’t want to compare this to last year’s Firestone Cinnamon Dolce, but it’s impossible not to. This is the more chocolatey version of that with none of the cinnamon that made last year’s pop and depending how much you enjoy that spice this can be an improvement or a loss. Rated on it’s own, this is the nitro mocha cold brew coffee of beers, an all-day pick-me-up coffee drink for day-drinking, the equivalent of adding an espresso shot to a glass of chocolate milk.

TOP 15

Fort George Brewing Magnanimous IPA

Neil Ferguson: Sharp citrusy flavors right on first sip. The hops complement the fir tips super well and give this a festive vibe that is almost like a Christmas tree in a glass. It’s like a beautifully flavorful northwest IPA laced with piney goodness. If you’re not into the fir taste this beer isn’t for you, but if you are into it, this will knock it out of the park

Michael Perozzo: Apple-bottom jeans. Boots with the fir (tips). It’s a bit over the top on fir for my liking. Yet I still like it.

Don Scheidt: For fans of the woods, the grand fir tips are prominent, backed up by generous hops in aroma and flavor and, eventually, a fairly dry finish. Think of the Christmas tree and its aromas and you won't be far off from this one.

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: Another IPA but this one is like getting lost wandering in a forest of wintergreen while vaping the finest pot oil you’ve ever had. The light malt touch keeps the emphasis on the lily and green hops, and a potpourri of grand fir tips that makes you want to go christmas tree hunting.

Trap Door Brewing Holidank

Neil Ferguson: This is a West Coast IPA that says nothing about being festive other than the name and the can design, but it is ultra- festive in the way it hits you in the face with tons of hops like a raging holiday party. The high ABV warms you right up and tickles the fancy in a way that straddles the line between modern and classic.

Michael Perozzo: Delivers on the Dank. Is there anything “winter” or “holiday” about it? Probably not. But who cares? It’s got a fuckin reindeer on the can and it’s delicious!

Don Scheidt: All the classic hops (old-school and modern: Simcoe, Mosaic, Chinook, Columbus and Centennial) are featured here, up front and personal, for fans of the dankness. Hop aromas alone will hold any bitter beer fans attention, and plenty of substantial maltiness backs it up. Wrap this one in hop-cone green wrapping paper. It's a gift for hop fans.

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: If you like chives, garlic, fresh cut crass and flowers then this is the IPA for you.

Rogue Santa’s Private Reserve 2022

Neil Ferguson: The tangerine comes through strong to comingle with the “chocolate flavors.” Tahini is super subtle and it would be nice to get it a little more. You would almost think this should be a pastry stout but it’s lighter and approachable. Given that Honey Mamas was involved, it would’ve been nice to capture a bit more of the richness of their product. As a whole, this beer is a festive trip and much different than most winter ales.

Michael Perozzo: I want to bang this on the table and eat it in slices. They nailed exactly what they were going for. Very chocolatey with a touch of orange - just like those little chocolate orange balls you only find this time of year.

Don Scheidt: Thanks to the chocolate truffle flavors from Honey Mama's, this one is redolent with tangerine fruit and chocolate, plus a touch of sesame halva in the background. You know those chocolate-orange candy balls that you whack on the counter to separate the segments? This is the liquid version of that, but whacking is not recommended. One for fans of beers with candy notes.

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: I wasn’t expecting the massive sweet Orange wallop this beer delivers in a fondue of milk chocolate. Serious bittersweet cacao nibs in this, big smooth citrus. A very fun beer to drink and a great alternative for the holidays, even if I don’t know if I could personally drink an entire pint of it.

Stormbreaker Brewing Winter Coat

Neil Ferguson: This is a quintessential “winter ale” in that it’s super malty with very little influence of modern hops. That would also be an over-simplification, and where it differs from the path is the underlying fruit flavor. You don’t taste a ton of actual pomegranate or even the smokey figs for that matter, but together these adjuncts combine to give this beer a weirdly delightful festive flavor that is akin to fruit cake but not at all sweet. Wonderful finish on this beer that will leave you feeling decorated.

Don Scheidt: Starts out with indistinct dark fruit and hints of rum. Pomegranate emerges with more mild fruit hints. Pleasantly warming.

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: A malt and fruit forward winter ale with notes of cocoa and dark fruit and the pepperiness of burnt toast crusts. A jammy center shows off dried red berry notes, dates, and a mild creeping bitterness.

Bale Breaker High Camp Winter IPA

Neil Ferguson: Finally an IPA! This is usually a shredder with the modern hops of Mosaic, Simcoe, HBC 630 all giving it kind of a dank West Coast vibe with high bitterness. What makes this wintery is in the way they jack up the malt to send you on down the slopes.

Michael Perozzo: Great marmalade balance of sweetness and hop bitterness. Sweet up front and crisp on the finish.

Don Scheidt: Bale Breaker isn't shy about its well-deserved reputation for hoppy IPAs, and this one is no exception. Generous additions of Mosaic, Simcoe, experimental HBC 630 hops create a tall pine-laden hop profile, with a sturdy chocolate-malt backbone.

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: I’m the only one who doesn’t love this beer, it’s just a little too bitter for me and takes on an earthy, dank and burnt seedy bitterness reminds me of one toke too many from the last embers of a bong. I can see why lovers of the San Diego and extreme beer IPA movement would love it with it’s intense pithy grapefruit and woody hop flavors though.

Anchor Brewing Christmas Ale

Neil Ferguson: In previous years they have leaned toward stouts and bigger dark beer, but this year is more of an Amaro-inspired ale with tons of herbs that bring to mind to mind an herb garden, with notes of digestives like Underberg and Fernet. These are complemented by the spicy notes from the rye and the toasted malts, all of which come together to make this a weirdly compelling sipper.

Michael Perozzo: Very Amaro or digestif sort of notes. Imagine a very drinkable Underberg. Here ya go.

Don Scheidt: Immediate spice aromas levitate out of the glass from this beer's surface, with strong reminders of a classic amaro. Fans of Fernet Branca will notice it right away. Distinctive aperitif in beer form: get your botanicals on.

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: This beer is dark and nutty just about every year, but the level of richness and tone of spicing varies and your mileage may vary wildly year to year. This year is a hit for me, I dig the chocolate flavors that serve to balance the unique-to-beer herbal blend of an Italian liqueur that goes down with a minty cooling quality like spiking your holiday hot chocolate.

Fremont Brewing Winter Ale

Neil Ferguson: Malt-forward this year and less hoppy than previous editions. Big notes of tobacco, chocolate, and sweetness give this beer that warming quality we look for in a winter ale and make it one of the best examples of the styles.

Michael Perozzo: Malt and spice. Dark, a note of star anise and nutmeg. Very bold. Not sure it’s meant for 16oz enjoyment, but 5oz is enjoyable.

Don Scheidt: Malt-forward with mildly bitter finish, abundant dark chocolate maltiness. Another beer that seems spice-laden, but actually uses no adjuncts. Tasty, imaginative seasonal ale.

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: This is a new winter seasonal favorite of mine since last year, I compare it to a more burly oatmeal stout or an Imperial Porter. Malt forward with creamy cocoa, peppery and spicy hops, warming alcohol, rich and full but not too intense.

Double Mountain Brewery Ranger Chocolate Stout

Neil Ferguson: This is a collaboration with Portland’s Ranger Chocolate Co. and the bittersweet baking chocolate definitely shines. This beer is dry and not too robust for being a winter stout but carries a richness that takes the light bodied stout into a new dimension.

Michael Perozzo: Light bodied stout. Appearance is dark, but not black. Chocolate is ever present from start to finish. Very pleasant.

Don Scheidt: Don't be fooled: this is chocolate flavored, but without the sweetness. No milk chocolate in this one; baker's chocolate is used instead, like a Lindt 100% chocolate bar. It's a good, sturdy stout, aromatic and roasty, one for the hard-core bitter chocolate fan's gift pack.

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: I dig these kind of stouts that don’t feel the need to hit you over the head with a thick mouthfeel and intense roastiness. And, as a chocolate beer you usually expect either bittersweet dark syrup or artificial fudge flavors from extracts that are so popular these days, this one is pure bakers chocolate, dry, nutty, cheerios whole grain malt, dry finish.

Gigantic Brewing Cat Ate My Stash and Pissed On The XMas Tree IPA

Neil Ferguson: Not necessarily a holiday ale but this is a hazy that hits with a warming kick of blueberry, is very citrus forward, and feels like a big hoppy bow. The label is also very psychedelic.

Michael Perozzo: Delivers on the dankness and the pine. And it delivers in spades. I want to drink a lot of this.

Don Scheidt: Fruity, full-flavored, rich, a perennial favorite at the Holiday Ale Festival (remember that one?), this one has a sturdy bitter finish. Call it a modern seasonal classic, just the kind of thing you'd expect from Gigantic, known for its varied IPA assortment.

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: A modern but slightly muddled West Coast IPA with some really mouthpleasing hop bitterness of tangy grapefruit, fresh squeezed juice, and kiwi puree. Slightly thrown off by a subtle marshmalllow character and veggies, but if you don’t look to hard this is a very crowd-pleasing IPA that would be appropriate at any time of year.

Block 15 Brewing Ol’ Saint Nick

Neil Ferguson: This is one of the most traditional examples you will find out there, with flavors of toffee, chocolate, and sweet dark fruit shining brightly and the hops delivering just the right amount of bitterness to remind you we are still in the Northwest.

Michael Perozzo: A dark ale with a hoppy spice. Old school in a sense, but in the best way.

Don Scheidt: Somewhat boozy winter warmer, plenty of depth to the malt character with toffee and chocolate notes, balanced by a bitter hop finish. This one could be a classic too, for a warming session by the fire with a straight-up winter warmer.

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: This is a fruity amber full of toasty malts and carmelized sugar, there is an ethereal spicing I cant quite pinpoint.

TOP 5

Kings and Daughters Wintering Stout

Neil Ferguson: Loving this classic big bodied stout that isn’t festive by any definition but certainly feels suited for cold nights. Huge notes of chocolate, coffee, vanilla, but all in balance. It’s rare to be head over heels for a stout that is so straightforward but this is a must-try.

Michael Perozzo: Just a beautifully executed stout with layers of malt character. Not one dimensionally roasty, instead it's full, rounded, sweet and chocolatey with a depth of malt character that's hard to find.

Don Scheidt: Kings and Daughters suggests "this smooth stout hints at coffee and chocolate, with a touch of vanilla." Seems like coffee and bitter chocolate are primary here. Wintering is quite roasty, coffee notes in a big coffee-roast stout. This is one to drink all the way into the spring thaw.

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: This is a big and bold, strong American/Export Stout that has the intensity of a Russian Imperial Stout but isn’t as heavy or sweet and is wonderfully adjunct flavoring free. Almost Cascadian Dark Ale level of citrusy and piney hopping here, woodey notes, a slightly chalky and mouth coating full throated roast with a dry and sandy finish.

Threshold Brewing Perun Polish Dark Lager

Neil Ferguson: Nice sweetness coming through and a true old world vibe, with the buckwheat adding a wheaty feeling of freshly cooked bread. Hard to classify this as a winter ale but it’s definitely better than trying to crush it in the summer, though you certainly could.

Michael Perozzo: Just a beautiful, beautiful beer. I don’t know what to type without delving into hyperbole. Perfect balance of sweet and roasty.

Don Scheidt: Polish-style dark lager with the unusual addition of buckwheat in the mash, on the sweet-malty side with some fruity character. Unique and almost perilously drinkable.

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: This has a soft and husky malt aroma that throws me off at first, but as it warms up I can tell it’s the unusual character of buckwheat that separates this from the more common Czech-style dark lagers. I get black pepper notes in a creamy lager mouthfeel, with a subtle mineraly profile. Very easy to drink and enjoy.

Hetty Alice Brewing Wintertime IPA

Neil Ferguson: This is crisp and nice and wonderfully crushable. Citra hops make this the kind of beer that isn’t necessarily “winter” but is a lovely colored, all around great beer.

Michael Perozzo: Super solid IPA. A Christmas tree-like essence. Centennial hops really come through. Bright, clean, and crisp!

Don Scheidt: Comet, Cascade and Citra form the hop profile in this one, and again, this doesn't seem particularly "wintery" - this could be a good beer in just about any season. It's a good dialed-in IPA with classic aromatic hops. A gift for the hop traditionalist, then.

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: A really nice citrusy and leafy modern American IPA with just a light touch of fusel alcohols presumably from it’s winter warming 7.3% abv. Another beer that would be at home any time of the year.

Sierra Nevada Brewing Celebration IPA

Neil Ferguson: This is the ultimate holiday beer that has nothing to do with holidays other than the can design. There is only a little bit of that fresh hop green taste but it quickly takes a back seat to the caramel malt, which feels like the star of the show in an era when most IPAs tend to let the hops do the heavy lifting. Basically, this takes the magic of Sierra Nevada’s classic pale ale and turns it up to 11 with a beautiful color and plenty of IBUs that give it that kick of citrus and pine.

Michael Perozzo: I’m gonna get kicked outta here for this… but this is so old school. Caramel and Crystal malts. This is such a malty IPA with little to no fresh hop character. Almost brown in color. I’m sorry. I’ll leave now.

Don Scheidt: This one is a bonafide craft-beer classic with more than forty years of history behind it. Is fresh hop an accurate descriptor here? Maybe it doesn't matter. Classic hops and a firm malt backbone define Celebration, as they have for years. There's a reason this one is widely and eagerly anticipated every year: It's a definitive American IPA.

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: Leave it to Sierra Nevada to create a supposedly “fresh hop” beer months after the hop harvest is over and yet it still tastes timeless. The OG winter IPA doesn’t age, this floral and just slightly malty beer to today’s standards is full of piney and full mouth coating hops with just a slight chewiness. What’s not to love?

pFriem Belgian Christmas Ale

Neil Ferguson: If you want the magic of the holidays in a glass that captures everything that comes to mind when we think holiday ale, this is the beer for you. Lovely coriander shines bright to complement those Belgian ale esters, plus a candied orange flavor that is both warming and radiant.

Michael Perozzo: Beautiful. Just beautiful.

Don Scheidt: Speaking of modern classics: this one, inspired by well-known Belgian winter-seasonal abbey ales. Coriander spice mingles with fruity yeast esters, full-bodied, luscious. It's a trip to the Flanders countryside in a bottle.

Ezra Johnson-Greenough: I pick up berry, lemon, passionfruit, banana, bubblegum and sage, with an earthy yeasty finish. I wish it was a little more focused and bright. I am the sole outlier on this beer, not my favorite.