New School Beer + Cider

View Original

Lisa Allen of Heater Allen Brewing highlights an overlooked classic beer

Lisa Allen, head brewer at McMinnville, Oregon’s Heater Allen Brewing

Every beer drinker has that one beer they turn to time and time again, an old faithful that never lets them down. For many, this beer is usually a staple of sorts or at least what one might call a “shelfie” in that it is readily and widely available. In some cases, this is the beer that started it all for you. Perhaps it was a pioneering craft brew that enlightened you to the world of beer that actually tastes good, or perhaps it is a beer that made you completely rethink what you thought you knew about a particular style. Whatever it may be, this is a beer that made an impact on you and is burned into your taste buds forever. In our monthly column The Beers That Made Us, we talk with brewers about the beers that have made the biggest impact on them in terms of their personal taste and love of craft beer, as well as how it inspired their personal approach to brewing. 



One of the bright spots in the wave of trends in today’s craft beer scene has been the renewed focus on making high-quality lagers. Better ingredients and a reverence for the traditions behind lager brewing have led to many craft breweries offering at least one if not many more styles of lager on their taplist. While many breweries have played a part in pushing the craft lager renaissance, it seems fair to say that McMinnville, Oregon’s Heater Allen Brewing deserves a nice chunk of recognition. Since 2007, the small brewery has been dedicated to the lager game and much of this credit goes to Head Brewer/Production Manager Lisa Allen. Given her prestigious credentials brewing up some of the country’s most decorated German and Czech style lager beers, one might expect Allen to select something European that defined her passion. Surprisingly, one of the beers that played an influential role in her journey is a non-lager brewed right in her home state that, if anything, sheds light on her dedication to balance. 

the many looks of Deschutes Brewery’s Obsidian Stout over the years

Beer: 

Deschutes Obsidian Stout

Lisa Allen (LA): The first one that immediately came to mind was Obsidian Stout from Deschutes. Deschutes is such a classic Oregon brewery, especially for anyone that grew up here and especially for anyone, like me, that spent many Christmas and summer breaks in Sunriver. Bend was such a nothing town back in the 90’s and Deschutes was the coolest thing in town…that and the outlet mall.

Your first time:

LA: I think it was my first time in the bar at Mt. Bachelor after a day of snowboarding, which is just a great experience anyway. I grew up in a family of craft beer lovers and everyone else was ordering Obsidian Stout so, what the hell, I did too. I usually would’ve ordered my craft go-to Mirror Pond, but didn’t want to feel left out. And it was delicious. I think that before then I was always a little afraid of really dark beers for some reason.

What makes it special:

LA: Years and years out, it’s still a really delicious beer. Beers can change a lot over time simply based on how they're brewed and how big the brewery has become, but Obsidian is one of those beers that I feel has really stayed the same. I can still grab a pint or a bottle and I know what it’s going to taste like. And it’s a classic stout! If I’m in the mood for a stout, I can grab some Obsidian and I know I won’t be disappointed. 

Why this beer is influential:

LA: Obsidian Stout, as well as a few other early Oregon craft beers, were the beers that got me into beer. They were easily accessible, not overly expensive, and, most importantly, delicious.

Why beer drinkers should pay attention:

LA: I’m going to sound like an old person shaking their fist at a cloud, but stouts aren’t typical stouts anymore, they are all super sweet and/or super boozy, and I’m just not into that. Obsidian Stout is a great example of a standard, delicious, well-made stout. 

How this beer inspired your brewery:

LA: Not in particular, but that doesn’t mean it won’t in the future. If we ever make a stout, I’ll definitely be taking some pointers from Obsidian.

 

Follow The Beers That Made Us series for more interviews with the founders of Russian River Brewing, Cloudburst Brewing, De Garde, Chuckanut, Upright Brewing, Hair of the Dog, Firestone Walker and others on the beers that inspired them.