Nothing could have prepared Threshold Brewing for the challenges they faced this past year with their new Aqua river-aged beer line. The trailblazing SE Portland brewery first dropped anchor (in the form of 4-packs) in the Willamette River in April 2023, strategically placing their renowned stouts and porters up and down Portland’s main tributary.

According to Threshold co-owner Sara Szymanski, the initial results were highly promising.

“We took regular samples those first few months and the results were immediately impressive: nuanced riverbed coming through and the local freshwater ecosystem taking up residence with their shiny new friends. Exactly what we hoped for.” 

Because the project was showing so much promise, Threshold doubled down in 2023 and traveled even more of their craft beer underwater, as much as they determined could comfortably contribute to the existing environment. Their final drop was late last summer and the entire line was allowed to overwinter beneath the swirling depths of the Willamette. 

What Threshold wasn’t counting on though: just how fully adopted their beer would become by the underwater flora and fauna. The first retrieval attempt was, in their words, an unequivocal disaster.  

“It was about a month ago,” recalls Sara. “We were ready to excavate the entire line and excited to bring it to market. We plunged down to our first drop site with fishing nets and inflation devices…and managed to completely demolish the delicate underwater habitat that had formed around our cans. I don’t know how to explain it, it was terrible. Just pure carnage. Sorry, it’s still hard to talk about. That was never our intent with Aqua and we nearly scrapped the entire venture right then and there.”

The brewery took a few days to process the aftermath before meeting with top city leaders, freshwater biologists, and, almost as an afterthought, Portland’s River Hugger Swim Team. The advice they received from the local swimmers turned out to be the key to everything.

“It sounds so obvious now – the mistake we made on that first retrieval attempt turned out to be a simple lack of synchronicity. Let’s face it, we were an uncoordinated team of beer people venturing into brand new territory, a lot of thrashing around, no SOP, no real training. We learned we needed a planned, coordinated effort with efficient underwater movement and minimal hydraulic friction. We also knew we were in a race against time and mother nature.”

The clock was ticking, not only for Threshold’s market release but because the delay in retrieval now put them perilously close to spring’s looming snowmelt runoff. High waters and rapid currents would quickly make retrieval nearly impossible. It was Threshold’s last chance and what ensued was a type of training montage that conjures up the theme from Rocky IV as well as John Candy coaching bobsled and Jennifer Lawrence ballroom dancing with Bradley Cooper.

“Not exaggerating, we basically lived at the local pool this month. We brought on additional team members to train with us. We knew every movement had to be in sync. That botched first attempt was still so fresh in our minds, you know? Sometimes we’d get tired, but then we’d say no. NO. We have to see this through.”

On the morning of April 1, 2024, a year-to-the-date since their very first underwater drop, Threshold successfully retrieved nearly 100% of their river-aged Aqua line. It was a scene full of emotion as the first of many 4-packs broke free from the surface. Cheers could be heard from pedestrians congregating on the nearby Hawthorne Bridge. Professional imagery and filming revealed a relatively undisturbed riverbed with all water-dwelling life intact. 

It's a win for beer and a win for Portland today. 

Aqua river-aged beer from Threshold Brewing is now available at their taproom on SE Stark and 79th St. and is being picked up by most major grocery chains. The brewery is currently considering sponsorship opportunities with the River Hugger Swim Team.