Pulitzer Prize winning family of Journalists launch new Oregon Cider brand
The Kristof family of Yamhill, Oregon is getting into hard cider and wine, recently launching their own Orchard Cider in October 2021. The Kristof Orchard is a 2nd generation farm owned by New York Times columnist and Pulitzer prize winning journalist Nicholas Kristof, his wife Sheryl WuDunn and daughter Caroline Kristof. You may recognize the name, as Nicholas Kristof has been making headlines of late as the most high profile candidate in Oregon’s upcoming race to be the next Governor of the state.
Kristof Farms in Yamhill, Oregon are launching their first Orchard Cider
The Kristof Farm was founded by the late Ladis Kristof after he fled imprisonment from Nazis and communist regimes and immigrated to Oregon in 1952. White settlers had previously occupied the Native American Kalapooian family land in the 1930’s and planted apples, walnuts, and prunes. In 1950 the settlers turned the land into a cherry farm before Ladis purchased it 50 years ago, the Kristof family continued to sell pie cherries for decades until a recent downturn in the demand.
In 2018 they converted about 20 of the sprawling 100 acres of farm land into an apple orchard and grape vines. About 8 acres are cider apples and 11 are Pinot Noir grapes, the rest of the land is trees, blackberry bushes, free roaming wildlife, and four enriched ponds that make for fertile grounds. The cider is the first product out of the new venture that will include wines in the future.
The late Ladis Kristof became a political scientist at Portland State University, where his wife Jane taught art history. They raised their son Nicholas on the farm, he is now a Harvard graduate, Rhodes Scholar, and New York Times Op-Ed columnist who covers human rights, women's rights, health, and global affairs. Nicholas married Sheryl WuDunn, and together they won a Pulitzer Prize for journalism and wrote a book called “Tightrope” about the struggles of of the working class. They live together now on the farm with the family matriarch Jane Kristof, and their 24 year-old daughter Caroline who is now managing the farm and spearheading the launch of their first cider.
“I grew up spending all of my summers on my grandparent's farm in Yamhill, and always feeling like the best version of myself there,” says Caroline. “Once I graduated college, I immediately moved out here and started helping with farm operations.”
Caroline is a recent 2020 pandemic graduate of Harvard University with a degree in History and Literature. She would probably be pursuing her dream of studying lucid dreaming in Nepal right now, but was waylaid by the pandemic grounded travel restrictions and has now rediscovered her passion for agriculture and drinking.
“I went back to the farm and just started getting into it because I didn't have post-grad plans anymore. We didn't initially think we'd have a harvest until 2021 but then we realized we could have a small one in 2020 and my parents were busy so I was like, okay, I'll manage it!
Her recently discovered passion for agriculture and drinking has led into the production of Kristof Farms Orchard Cider.
The Kristofs got connected to nearby acclaimed cidermaker Christine Walter whose own family owns and runs the Bauman Farm in Gervais, Oregon. Christine had heard about the Kristof family’s dream of planting cider apples from former Wandering Aengus Cider owner Nick Gunn, and finally met Caroline through David Damjanovic of taproom/bottleshop “The Place.” Gunn had done some consulting with the Kristofs on what cider apple varietals they should plant, and originally Cider Riot owner (and Yamhill, OR native) Abram Goldman-Armstrong was lined up to actually ferment and bottle the cider before he moved to Norway. Now, with the help of Christine Walter, their first 2020 vintage of cider has come to fruition and she is excited about working with the Kristof’s, “Lovely humans, lovely place, and I absolutely can't wait to see their cider brand (and wines) grow into a vibrant addition to the local community of makers,” says Christine.
The Kristof “Orchard Cider” is made from their entire 2020 harvest, it comprises 8 apple varieties all grown on the farm: Dabinett, Michelin, Wickson Crab, Yarlington Mill, Redfield, Harry Master's Jersey, Golden Russets, Kingston Black, Vilberie.
“Because it was our first harvest it was very small, so we just threw all the cider apples together and made one "Orchard Cider." These were just from our dwarf trees, too. When our semi-dwarf trees are mature enough to harvest then we're really going to have a ton more cider! This year, we've already harvested at least 9 times more than last year,” explains Caroline.
The Kristof Farms Orchard Cider is a true expression of the orchard, and does not fall into any standard style definitions. It was produced at Reverend Nat’s Hard Cidery in Portland, which was a different process that involved pressing the apples from Kristof on-site when Nat’s usually uses juice. The result is a complex and nearly dry cider with only a touch of sugar added to take the edge off some of the sharper notes.
“It is so exciting!” says Caroline, unable to contain her joy to see their first cider released into the world. “We think the cider is delicious, and that's an ode to our apples! We literally planted the trees that created the fruit that got pressed and fermented into the cider in these bottles! I mean, how cool is that! It's just so cool that we got to be a part of the entire process, from tree to bottle. It's rare these days to be a part of something from start to finish, because it's not efficient at all. But this is about so much more than efficiency!”
The Orchard Cider is just step one in a long-term vision that will include their own estate wine and perhaps a tasting room on the farm down the line. This years harvest will be made at Bauman’s Cider, but the Kristof’s also hope to co-ferment cider with their own grapes, pears, and other fruits or berries growing on the farm. The possibilities broaden from there, with opportunities for hiking trails around the property, live music, lavender fields, and even on-site truffle hunting and gardening. “Everything rooted in permaculture principles,” says Caroline.
The Kristof Orchard Cider launch will take place on Sunday, October 10, from 4-6 pm at The Place PDX at 1212-D SE Powell Blvd in Portland, OR. Tacos will be available from Canallas if you need a snack. 500ml bottles will be on-sale at The Place during and after the event, and additional options for how and where to purchase the cider are forthcoming.