Chuckanut Brewing’s Will Kemper explains an essential underappreciated beer

Chuckanut Brewery co-owner/brewmaster Will Kemper with a Kolsch in hand.

Everyone has that one beer – the beer that ignited your love for craft beer and sent you on a journey. This could be a basic lager or something more complex like a geuze or lambic. In many cases, it’s a flagship from one of the pioneers of the craft beer industry. In our hyper-local craft scene where breweries often crank out several new releases every week, sometimes we overlook the classics and the staples that may have been super exciting at one point in time. These beers may feel antiquated or old man-ish compared to the latest pastry stouts or quadruple dry-hopped haze bomb, but they are still just as worthy of attention. They are also quite often the go-to beers for brewers who want a beer that is balanced, respectable, and not too much of a palate overload. In our column The Beers That Made Us, we talk with brewers about the beers that have made the biggest impact on them in terms of their personal taste and love of craft beer as well as well as how it inspired their approach to brewing. 

For this edition of The Beers That Made Us, we spoke with Will Kemper, Owner and Brewmaster of Chuckanut Brewery in Bellingham, WA. To say Kemper is accomplished would be putting it mildly. His history in beer goes back more than three decades when he started the Thomas Kemper Brewery with his wife Mari, becoming one of the pioneers of craft beer in the Northwest. From there, Will and Mari moved around the U.S. and eventually the world helping launch other craft breweries before ultimately making their way back to the Northwest to launch Chuckanut in 2008. Since then, Will has helped Chuckanut become one of the most decorated lager breweries in the U.S. 

With so much history and accolades, as well as being someone who played an active role in the explosion of craft beer, Will Kemper is one of the most interesting people to talk with for The Beers That Made Us. In this edition, Will put a different spin on things - instead of focusing on one specific beer, he chose to highlight a style that made a big impact on him and is sometimes overlooked in American craft beer. It’s also worth noting that Will is no stranger to brewing this style of beer, having won a gold medal from the Great American Beer Awards for Chuckanut’s rendition. 

Beer: 

Will Kemper (WK): Kolsch is the beer I think should [receive] more notice. Gaffel Kolsch is one that can be sought out. Bear in mind freshness - or the lack thereof - is most important for this. 

Your first time:

WK: In the 1990's my wife and I stayed in Cologne for several days largely exploring Kolsch. More often than not when I drink a Kolsch I rekindle in my mind experiences and feelings I had upon that exploration.

What makes it special:

​WK: When well done, the drinkability is superb. This is due to the balance of dryness, malt character, and subtle finishing of the hops.

Why this beer is influential:

WK: If influential means more than the obvious taste aspects in a historical context, then compare it with French champagne as far as a protected geographical designation.   

Why beer drinkers should pay attention:

WK: Kolsch is an alternative to other light beers. In Cologne, what struck me most was the diversity of Kolsch there. Most Americans have only one idea of Kolsch. The range of product characteristics, whether with hops, yeast profile or finishing is possibly the broadest amongst any beer style whether ale or lager. Conventional light beers do not offer such range. Visit Cologne, and you will realize this is true.   

How this beer inspired your brewery:

WK: Our Kolsch is designed after my preferred model. It strives to be drinkable due to certain lager techniques yet adhering to classical Kolsch ale considerations. One way we are able to achieve that is with a special proprietary yeast strain that I brought over from Cologne myself. I have never found another ale strain with such clean finishing capabilities. This allows the subtle malted wheat and noble hop character to shine.   

Check out another edition of The Beers That Made Us:

Upright Brewing's Alex Ganum on rediscovering a classic essential beer