Stray Cider; the new co-fermented side project of Portland Cider Co.’s Deron Davenport
Deron Davenport has been the lead cidermaker for Clackamas, Oregon based Portland Cider Co. since 2014, but sometimes even leaders stray from the path. Luckily for us, Davenport isn’t straying too far for his new side project Stray Cider, a private label brand of co-ferment ciders for true apple and fermentation connoisseurs.
After taking a break to work a wine grape harvest at Day Wines in Dundee, Davenport was inspired by the love of another fruit to wander over into a new adventure that showcases the versatility of cider. Stray Cider is quite different then the established Portland Cider Co. which specializes in semi-sweet flavors that highlight extra fruited and flavored ciders that often find inspiration in cocktails, juice blends, and spritzy tropical refreshers designed to be approachable, casual, easy-drinkers. Stray Ciders will be the opposite in many ways; they will be consistently dry, and range from tannic to complex and vibrant, sometimes in fruit forward wine/cider hybrids that are nuanced and beg you to sit with them, even the packaging of 750ml wine-style bottles stand out from Portland Cider’s approachable 12oz, 16oz and 24oz cans.
Stray Cider is putting special attention on the increasingly popular “co-ferments” which hybridize cider with another fermentable fruit used in fermentation (usually wine grapes.)
“I would describe a co-ferment as multiple sources of sugar being fermented together,” says Davenport. “Most modern cider innovation has come from sweetening or flavoring cider with different fruits and spices. I want to take more of a wine making approach to cider and use co-fermentation and varietal blending to showcase how diverse and complex cider can be.”
The key difference between co-ferments and other extra fruited ciders are these ones are actually fermented together as opposed to additional non-apple fruit juices, flavorings, or extracts added to the cider post fermentation. For Stray that means lots of apples and grapes intermingling together or unique varietals that show off singular apple varieties while most cider uses blends of juices. “We’re so lucky to have access to all sorts of stone fruits and berries here in the pacific northwest,” says Davenport. “They can all sing a unique little tune through fermentation. I certainly didn’t invent this idea, but I think it’s underserved in a city full of adept palettes not looking to be patronized.”
The seed was planted for Stray Cider during the time that Davenport spent a season assisiting Day Wines with their crush day. “I was driving grape skins to Portland Cider in the middle of the night to start little ferments, not quite knowing what I’d do with the finished cider. It was very surreal and exciting, and I could feel this momentum building.”
Davenport may be straying slightly from his main job at Portland Cider Co., but he still comes home to the Clackamas cidery. He credits Portland Cider Co. owners Jeff and Lynda Parrish for being supportive of his aspirations, at first by letting him take a leave to help a cidery startup in Kenya, then by letting him take time to work wine harvest in the Willamette Valley. Without Portland Cider Co., Stray Cider may not be possible as the Parrish’s are graciously letting Davenport ferment and bottle the Stray Cider label from their Clackamas production facility.
Working in cider and wine for nearly a decade has given Davenport the opportunity to build some fruitful partnerships with apple growers, orchards, chefs, artists and winemakers like Brianne at Day Wines that Stray plans to continue to cultivate and leverage. “She [Brianne] brings in diverse grape varietals that can provide so many unique characteristics. Most wine makers I talk to about what I’m doing get excited and want to help me source what I need. It’s a great community.”
Stray Cider’s first two co-ferments were spontaneously fermented using the native yeast on grape skins. These “wild” ferments are unique and complex, but also unpredictable and difficult to replicate, so they will use lab propogated yeast strains as well. Their flagship cider - Title Track - is fermented super cold almost like a lager, but with a farmhouse yeast that plays well with the sharp apples and is complimentary to the french oak and tea it’s fermented on.
Title Track - the flagship cider is a completely dry crusher. Subtle use of French oak and tea providing mouthfeel more than flavor. Eventually it will be packaged in a 16oz can and be the only Stray cider available year round.
Song Within a Song - a co-ferment of bittersweets and sharp apples, along with marionberries, Dolcetto, and Tannat. It’s a full bodied cider showing off a pure berry flavor and aroma that out of the liquid through without any residual sweetness.
Beautiful Strangers - a co-ferment of bittersweets and sharps on Viognier and Pinot Gris skins. The Viognier gives off savory notes, then the cider finishes fruity and pithy. A slight hint of familiar funk on it reminds you it’s a wild cider. Grippy and refreshing, a great summer cider.
Gold Past Life - is made primarily from deep, rich, and very tannic Yarlington Mill apples. This English-style cider does have some new wave qualities as Davenport blended in dolgo crab apples for an untraditional acidity you don’t normally find in these types of ciders.
Engaging with the local art and music community is another huge part of the inspiration for Stray Cider. The logos and label are designed by tattoo artist Renata @ablackrabbit, and it’s just the first collaboration Davenport intends to do with more label art and merchandise tapping into the broader community, even Stray Cider sponsored gallery showings are of interest.
“I’ve grown up in Portland, and I owe my creativity, love of craft, and curiosity for differentness to the people and spirit of this city. I love the way we all support each other in Portland, it’s still a small town and we can all hype each other up,” adds Davenport.
You can catch Stray Cider at locations like “The Place” in Portland, OR, and this Saturday, July 8th back at Day Wines in Dundee, Oregon. Follow @StrayCider on instagram for the latest, and to request ciders at your local bars, bottleshops or restaurants.