Private Press Brewing’s Brad Clark discusses an inspirational barrel-aged masterpiece

It’s hard not to get excited by the modern craft beer industry, with thousands of breweries around the country cranking out small batches of hyperlocal, high-quality beer. This is a reality that the pioneers of the industry would’ve had a hard time imagining when they were practically begging consumers to try beers that were dark or hoppy or far too boozy when compared to mass-produced watery lagers. Yet, in the swirl of excitement that comes with being a beer lover in our current era, it’s easy to overlook the beers and brewers that made this all possible. But many of these beers are classic for a reason, and while they may not be as attention-grabbing as the latest hazy juice bomb from your local brewery, their continued availability is a testament to their influence and their timelessness. In our monthly column The Beers That Made Us, we talk with brewers about the beers that have made the biggest impact on them in terms of their personal taste and love of craft beer, as well as how it inspired their personal approach to brewing. Hopefully their perspective will inspire you to take your own trip down beer memory lane.

Brad Clark knows strong barrel-aged beers. As a founding head brewer of Jackie O’s in Ohio, Clark made a name for both himself and his brewery due in large part to his adventurous barrel-aged beers. Though he is perhaps equally known for his sours, Clark is a master of the imperial stout. His talent for brewing, blending, aging and adjuncting made for the perfect symbiosis in constructing the king of beers that made Jackie O’s a destination brewery and substantially raised the bar for not just the state of Ohio, but pretty much any brewery looking to tackle this increasingly popular style. What makes Clark even more fascinating is that he decided to leave the brewery he co-founded and help grow to a 14,000 barrel per year brewery with multiple locations, founding the members-only Private Press Brewing a few years ago. He accurately describes it as a “one-man, club-based, nano operation.” In other words, a major switch-up from the expansive footprint of Jackie O’s. Running his own small operation with a loyal and open-minded fanbase has allowed Clark to focus even more on his barrel-aging program, with Private Press stouts and barleywines being highly coveted by beer nerds. With such an illustrious and impactful career, we had to ask Clark about one of the beers that influenced him.

Beer:

Firestone Walker Anniversary Ale

Brad Clark: Anniversary Ale from Firestone Walker Brewing. (Dogfish Head’s) Sam [Calagione] stole my other go-to Rodenbach Grand Cru.

Your first time:

Brad Clark: I remember having 10, the first of the Anniversary Ales, in 2008. The idea of blending styles, barrels, and letting winemakers drive the blending process just blew me away. It was the first beer that I had encountered that was a component-driven blend and the first example of conceptual brewing/construction I had experienced as well. I soon created a series at Jackie O’s called “Cellar Cuvee.” The first 2 Cellar Cuvee releases were different beers blended and aged in 1 barrel. As the series progressed, I started blending multiple barrels. Now at Private Press, every single release is a component driven blend that is deeply rooted in the moment I drank 10.

What makes it special:

Brad Clark: It is ahead of its time, it is fluid, nimble, and explorative, every single year. I love that it is a snapshot of the cellar at that moment in time. A true vintage that is determined by the depth of the cellar and the whim of the winemaker’s palate. I had the honor of being part of the blending session for the 26th Anniversary Ale. That was a completely full circle moment for me and something I will cherish for a long time.

Why this beer is influential:

Brad Clark: So much of brewing is focused on style, process, ingredients, and creative license. You can brew within guidelines or outside of them. The amazing people at Firestone flipped that on its head and created a new approach to constructing beer. By utilizing component-driven blending, a brewer can create something dynamic, nuanced, bold, or consistent, depending on their intention. I now work with loose style constructs and then blend towards the flavor profile, texture, and emotion. This approach has revitalized me as a brewer. After 17 years, I am more inspired and driven than I have ever been.

Why beer drinkers should pay attention:

Brad Clark: It provides an experience that is unique and different from 99% of the beer we consume. To open a bottle, read the story, familiarize yourself with the components, and then slowly consume the Anniversary Ale as it warms, oxidizes and softens is an immersive and intimate experience. It’s romantic and all-encompassing.

How this beer inspired your brewery:

Brad Clark: Every release I have done at private press is inspired by the Anniversary Ale formula. So I guess to take it one step forward, my new brewery is inspired by 10. Every beer that Private Press puts out is a component driven blend.

The Beers That Made Us is a monthly column exploring brewers favorite underappreciated or simply classic beers that they find essential drinking. Read past entries into this series with Russian River Brewing founder Vinnie Cilurzo, Chuckanut Brewing founder Will Kemper, Hair of the Dog Brewing founder Alan Sprints, Firestone Walker founder David Walker, and many, many more.