Beer community honors late publican Matt Bonney with Ye Olde Centaur Barleywine
Seattle publican Matt Bonney unexpectedly passed away in March 2019, the Washington beer community has came together to remember the now legendary publican with a new beer.
The centaur of old was a creature from Greek mythology, half-man and half-horse, representing barbarism and unbridled chaos. The more modern Centaur (properly spelled with a capital ‘C’) was fond of quality food and drink, had an abundance of friends, and was an instrumental figure in the Seattle beer scene, a mentor to many, a husband, one who was not bound to be forgotten easily. His untimely passing in his mid-40s, in March of 2019, sent a shock wave through the industry in Seattle. Matt Bonney had been instrumental in running Wallingford’s Bottleworks beer shop, Fremont’s popular Brouwer’s Café bar and restaurant, the Burgundian, and eventually his own pub, Toronado Seattle, an offshoot of the legendary San Francisco beer bar. (The covid-19 pandemic has not been kind to this legacy; the Burgundian and the Toronado have since shut down, and Brouwer’s hangs on with to-go orders and, weather permitting, some outdoor seating.)
How does someone remember someone like Matt Bonney? Remembering Bonney’s memorial gathering at Toronado, like this:
“What a great feeling it was to feel the love and respect for Matt in the room. After almost two years I could feel his presence with us. He is that unforgettable.” - Lynn Bonney
a crew of Bonney friends gathered for the Ye Olde Centaur Barleywine brew day in August 2019
In 2021, a group of Bonney’s friends got together. The impetus was a special brewing project at Fremont Brewing, located not even a half-mile from Brouwer’s.
“Bonney liked his strong beer and Centaurs! He was famous for calling 8% IPAs “session beers”, and he often referred to himself as Mr. Centaur. One of the first beer projects he put me in charge of was Brouwer’s 7th Anniversary Barleywine--- Old Bridgerider. We collaborated with Matt Lincecum and Matt Lincoln of Fremont Brewing on this, and the Matts and Bonney went on to make 3 Matts together. When it came to making a beer for Bonney, Fremont Brewing was the clear choice, and Matt heartily agreed. The name - Ye Old Centaur - for a barrel-aged barleywine (I hoped to call it a Bonneywine, but the feds didn’t allow it) made in Bonney’s honor, was of course the natural choice. If not for the pandemic we’d all be down at Golden Gardens Beach (the original plan) for a giant farewell party, with fire and loud music, but that can wait. For now, turn up the music (Bonney loved Clutch!), open this beer, take a good swig, sit back, and let the memories flow!” - Nat Pellman
And so it was that Ye Old Centaur, a potent custom-brewed barleywine, was publicized on social media by both Brouwer’s and Fremont Brewing. Familiar Seattle beer industry people and friends were collaborators: Lynn Bonney, Phil Bonney, Nat Pellman, Ken Sorenson, Joel Klemenhagen, Mike Clark, Ian Roberts, Matt Lincecum.
“When you sit down and take your first sip of Ye Olde Centaur, remember this isn’t just a beer, it’s a liquid epitaph. A tribute to a man so beloved by so many, a man who inspired not just me but countless others. To have known Bonney is to have truly lived, and even though he is no longer physically here his presence is felt ever eternal. So when you take that first sip, my friend, close your eyes, inhale a deep breath of this bottled monument, hold it deep and listen...that’s Matt Bonney’s laughter, reminding you to enjoy life to its fullest. We will always miss you, but you will never be forgotten. RIP Centaur.“ - Ken Sorenson
And what makes up Ye Olde Centaur? From Fremont Brewing: “A barley wine ale that has been aged in bourbon barrels, Ye Olde Centaur was brewed with Maris Otter Pale, Triticale Munich, Crystal, Dark Crystal, and Cherrywood Smoked malts, and Northern Brewer hops. It has a 10% ABV with 30 IBU’s and will be available in 22oz bottles and magnums.“ They’re serious about the aging part. Barrels include peated (Scotch whisky) barrels and Jack Daniel’s barrels. The project was kicked off in Fremont’s brewhouse early in August, 2019, so there’s been some serious aging going on. Expect rich maltiness, some smokiness, and a good boozy roundness. The early pre-sale at Brouwer’s sold out in five minutes. Fremont Brewing will have it for sale on their web site on January 8th, with magnums on sale at 11am and 22-ouncers on sale at 2pm, and a set limit of one (each) per household. It goes without saying that these will also sell out quickly.
“Matt Bonney and I were close friends. He was not only a beer lover but a music lover and we saw many a metal show together. He also loved to give his two cents and I was always ready to listen. When I would sit at his Toronado bar and he was bartending he would lovingly rinse a clean glass with the glass rinser and anoint me with the excess water from the glass. The way that a Priest would splash his parishioners. When he did so he would say ‘bless you my son’ and I would happily proclaim ‘thank you Father, may I have another!” This became a regular occurrence on my visits to see him. Matt is missed dearly but his stories and advice live on!” - Joel Klemenhagen
A portion of the proceeds from the sale of Ye Olde Centaur will be donated to the National Organization for Rare Disorders (rarediseases.org) on behalf of the Bonney Family.
The centaur of old was mythological. The Centaur of Seattle’s beer culture has passed from this mortal world, but lives on in the hearts and minds of all who knew and enjoyed the good life with him. If you are so fortunate as to get a taste of Ye Old Centaur, raise your glass to Matt Bonney. Matt Bonney still has a posse.
