Josh Pfriem on the classic Belgian beer that inspired the Family Brewers
It’s hard not to get excited by the modern craft beer industry, with thousands of breweries around the country cranking out small batches of hyperlocal, high-quality beer. This is a reality that the pioneers of the industry would’ve had a hard time imagining when they were practically begging consumers to try beers that were dark or hoppy or far too boozy when compared to mass-produced watery lagers. Yet, in the swirl of excitement that comes with being a beer lover in our current era, it’s easy to overlook the beers and brewers that made this all possible. But many of these beers are classic for a reason, and while they may not be as attention-grabbing as the latest hazy juice bomb from your local brewery, their continued availability is a testament to their influence and their timelessness. In our monthly column The Beers That Made Us, we talk with brewers about the beers that have made the biggest impact on them in terms of their personal taste and love of craft beer, as well as how it inspired their personal approach to brewing. Hopefully their perspective will inspire you to take your own trip down beer memory lane.
There are relatively few brewers and breweries who can lay claim to masterfully executing so many different styles of beer as Josh Pfriem and pFriem Family Brewers, the Hood River operation he founded just over a decade ago with friends and business partners Ken Whiteman and Rudy Kellner. Within the craft beer community, there is an almost feverish devotion to the brewery’s pilsner, while its hoppier offerings and lagers consistently garner awards. But what makes pFriem such a versatile and exciting brewery is Josh Pfriem’s devotion to styles like saisons, barrel-aged stouts, classic styles of sour beer as well as fresh takes, and a range of Belgian-inspired offerings. Though it may not be immediately apparent to the average drinker who grabs a six-page of pFriem IPA at the grocery store or even stops by the Hood River brewpub (one of the better brewpub dining experiences you will ever find, in this writer’s opinion), but a quick perusal down the taplist or in their Bear’s Den to-go lounge reveals a range of riffs on Belgian beer that are traditional and occasionally inventive. Whether you are tasting their various Flanders-style ales, lambic, or more classic Belgian ales, you will find a deep love that goes well beyond the need to brew something trendy. In recent years, pFriem has placed an increasing focus on developing these offerings and they only seem to get better with each batch. Perhaps it is the ability of Josh and his team to keep one foot in the classic European traditions of brewing while the other is in the modern world of Pacific Northwest craft that has made pFriem such an acclaimed brewery. With all of this in mind, we asked Josh about one of the beers that has inspired him on his journey as a brewer.
Beer:
St. Bernardus Abt 12
Your first time:
Josh Pfriem: The first time I had this beer was while I was living/brewing in Salt Lake City. I was intrigued and enjoyed it, but I would say my first proper experience with it was on my first trip to Belgium in 2008. My wife Annie and I were traveling the country via touring bicycles, our mission was to experience the beers, food, and culture firsthand. There were so many inspirational and inspiring moments on that trip, but our visit to the little town of Watou was one of the greatest. We rolled into Watou just before sunset after visiting the legendary Rodenbach brewery that morning. We were staying just outside of Watou at the St. Bernardus brewery’s Brouwers Huis, which is an old farmhouse that sits right next to the brewery in the Wallonia countryside. We had just pedaled over 45 kilometers and were starving, exhausted, and thirsty. We were very excited to dine at a famous restaurant at the time - Hommelhof was known for pairing beer with its high-end food menu - and we wanted to stop on our way to the Brouwers Huis. We saw a man on a street corner of Watou and asked for directions (this was pre-smartphone era), and he told us that it is a nice restaurant and we should rest and shower before we go. That said, he knew the owner and if we waited until tomorrow he would take us there for dinner with his family. Annie and I are always up for an adventure, so we agreed to his plan. We ate a quick meal in town that evening and made our way to the Brouwers Huis. There was no tasting room or pub at the brewery, but at the time they had fridge full of St. Bernardus beer and if you were staying there you were welcome to enjoy as much as you like, and it had a lovely study/living room to enjoy your beers in. It was at this moment that I had my first proper St. Bernardus Abt 12, proper glassware, gorgeous mousy foam, deep mahogany body, so rich, but yet so quaffable, it was a magic moment. The next day we took up our new friend on his offer and enjoyed lobster dinner paired with Abt 12, it was an encore to the previous evening's experience. Magical, mysterious, and delightful. After these wonderful experiences, I was able to tour the brewery and it made this intriguing beer come even more to life and cement an experience with me that I wanted to share with others.
What makes it special:
JP: This beer has a beautiful way of being big, bold, complex, while also showing up on the palate as light, dry, and effervescent. The frothy foam from the highly carbonated beer on top of the malt-forward body, with the candi-sugar sweetness all works together in harmony to create a special beer and drinking experience. Proper glassware and drinking at the right moment take this beer to the next level.
Why this beer is influential:
JP: The detail to every part of this beer and how drinkable it is really makes it influential to me. At the time it reminded me of the fine Pinot Noirs of Oregon, so full of flavor, but yet so restrained. Complex, intriguing, but yet drinkable and dynamic. At the time I was already a professional brewer and this beer was one of those beers that opened my eyes of how good beer can be.
Why beer drinkers should pay attention:
JP: It is still an amazing world class beer and is a wonderful example of the style. There are other great beers in this realm, such as Westvleteren 12, but that beer is hard to find outside of the Abby, whereas St. Bernardus Abt 12 is available and accessible to enjoy. This is a food-friendly beer and is also great for late night conversation or a mellow evening next to the fireplace.
How this beer inspired your brewery:
JP: Absolutely! pFriem Belgian-Style Strong Dark is definitely inspired by St. Bernardus Abt 12!
The Beers That Made Us is a monthly column exploring brewers favorite underappreciated or simply classic beers that they find essential drinking. Read past entries into this series with the likes of Russian River Brewing founder Vinnie Cilurzo, Chuckanut Brewing founder Will Kemper, Cloudburst Brewing brewmaster Steve Luke, Hair of the Dog Brewing founder Alan Sprints, The Alchemist founder John Kimmich, and many, many more.
